Like fashion trends, brow trends are an ever-changing cycle… but some trends are not right for everyone. So, how can you ensure your clients brows suit them?
To achieve the perfect brow, it’s important to learn and understand face shapes to decipher which shape brow works for each client.
How to offer a successful brow consultation
Joanne Febers, a brow artist and educator based in Paisley, says that one of the biggest mistakes she sees beginner techs making is ‘forcing’ a brow shape that doesn’t suit the client, leaving them with an unflattering or disappointing result.
“The best way to tackle this is start off with a very thorough consultation with your client. Take the time to map the brows in relation to their face shape, and show your client in the mirror to help manage their expectations,” she explains.
“This gives your client an opportunity to see your mapping, and you the chance make any reasonable adjustments.”
Showing your client the process also gives you the chance to explain why their desired look may not be achievable at that moment in time, helping to build trust.
Likewise, Febers also notes that if you feel your client would suit a slightly different shape than what they currently have, don’t be afraid to guide them – you are the expert. “I would consider my client’s preferences, then try to meet them in the middle,” she notes.
The best brow shapes for different face shapes
Lisa O’brein Stone, Salon System educator and brow expert, shares what to consider when choosing the best brow to suit your client’s face shape…
A round face
You should avoid a very rounded brow as it will make the face look round and fuller; create a brow with strong lines and angles with a good arch, as this can help lift and lengthen the face.
A square face
Try and avoid strong lines and create a soft arch to soften a strong jaw line.
Long/rectangle face
To shorten the length of the face, keep the brows more horizontal or straight and reduce the height of the arch, as this will draw eyes across the face and away from the length.
How age affects brow mapping and shaping?
Just as no two faces are the same, brows evolve over time. Age plays a crucial role in how you map, shape, and style brows – what works for a 20-year-old may not suit a client in their 50s.
Understanding these nuances ensures every client leaves with a brow that enhances their natural features, balances their face, and feels effortlessly age appropriate.
Brow tips for younger clients
“When working with younger clients, the focus is usually on guiding natural growth and keeping things soft and youthful,” says Febers.
“Younger skin has more elasticity, and their brow hair tends to be denser, so I work lightly, avoid over-defining, and keep the shape natural so they don’t end up with brows that look too heavy for their face, and we don’t lose the fullness of the natural brow.”
Brow tips for mature clients
With older clients, the approach shifts completely. “Skin becomes more delicate, brow hair can be sparse or coarse, and the natural brow shape often changes over time,” she explains. “I find these clients are generally looking for more definition without it looking harsh or overdone.
“I also pay close attention to symmetry and lift, because small adjustments in shape can make a big difference on a mature face.”
Does AI have a place in brow consultations?
With AI becoming more widespread, it poses the question: does AI have a place in brow consultations and brow mapping?
“I think these tools could be fantastic for supporting skilled brow artists, rather than replacing them,” shares Febers. “Virtual consultations, for example, can help clients who are unsure of what service to book feel more confident in their choice.
“AI face mapping is an interesting development as well, as it can identify symmetry, proportions, and potential shaping options. However, it doesn’t account for a client’s personal preferences, natural growth patterns, or hair texture, so the final decisions still need to be made by a trained artist.”
Top tip – What position should you put your client in when brow mapping?
Another of O’brien Stone’s top tip for styling a brow is to always have your client in seated and not lying flat with relaxed muscles.
“You should work on your client in the same position as they see their brows and work from the front of your client, brows look very Brow shaping JJ Brow shaping JJ different when you’re styling from behind.”
