Mastering the art of bespoke brow treatments

Bespoke brow services offer clients brows that suit their face, skin and lifestyle – here’s how the brow experts create super-personalised looks

A one-size-fits-all approach isn’t applicable in beauty, especially when it comes to brows. Bespoke brow treatments that take into account a client’s individual face and eye shape, brow hair type and skin tone are now the gold standard for achieving natural, flattering results, and brow artists have adapted to carefully balancing client preferences with their expert knowledge to create a look that suits each client.

The demand for bespoke brows has grown as clients become more knowledgeable about brow treatments and expect a high level of artistry and personalisation.

“Clients’ expectations have evolved as the brow industry has grown,” explains Leisa Roberts, founder of the award-winning Brow HQ salon in Chester. She adds, “It’s no longer acceptable to offer a basic brow treatment alone. All our salon treatments include bespoke brow mapping, custom-blended colours and a variety of solutions, techniques and products.”

Sian Dellar, a microblading and semi-permanent makeup specialist, notes that the rise of bespoke brows is tied not only to beauty trends but also to lifestyle needs. “In my opinion, semi-permanent makeup has grown so much in years, especially the brows because they have become the frame of a face.

“Social media, beauty influencers and makeup tutorials have emphasised the ‘perfect brow’ look, creating constant demand for precise, long-lasting results. But also due to busy lifestyles, people want to ‘wake up ready’ without having to spend time in the morning with makeup routines.”

The importance of the initial brow consultation

For Nez Hasan, a global semipermanent makeup artist specialising in brows, the initial consultation is a crucial stage in the treatment process. This step allows her to understand a client’s goals, lifestyle, and skin and hair type, which all play a role in shaping the final look.

Hasan explains her approach, saying, “We have our consultations via email with photos and concerns shared. At the appointment time, I will first look at their brows while we are having a general chat and see the brow movement to get a rough idea of which treatment will suit them the best.

“Once I start pre-drawing the brows, I have a better answer, depending on the skin colour and brow hair type and colour.”

Similarly, Roberts emphasises the importance of understanding a client’s lifestyle and brow preferences early in the consultation.

“We ask questions in terms of what it is our clients would like to achieve – we ask, ‘If we were to wave a magic brow wand, what would your brows look like and how long would you like them to last?’” 

By discussing factors like lifestyle and exposure to sunlight, Roberts assesses the durability needs of each client’s brows, helping to select a treatment that aligns with both their daily life and desired style.

Dellar highlights the depth of her consultation process, particularly for semi-permanent makeup. During a consultation for microblading, some of the key factors she assesses to see if someone is a suitable candidate include:

• Skin type and texture
• Health and medical history
• Allergies
• Pregnancy or breastfeeding
• Natural hair growth
• Expectations and goals
• Lifestyle factors
• Previous brow treatments

She adds that skin type, undertone and existing brow hair are all critical in tailoring the treatment: “If you have oily skin, combination or powder brows is usually recommended. If you have dry or normal skin, you would usually hold pigment well, so the microblading option would be good. If you have sensitive skin you may heal slowly and the technique may need to be more gentle.

“For skin undertones, selecting the correct pigment for the client’s skin tone ensures that the brows will complement the natural skin tone and doesn’t heal to an unnatural colour. Existing brow hair would dictate how much enhancement is needed and whether strokes, shading or a combination is best.”

She also notes that some clients may need to delay treatments until certain conditions are addressed: “There are several red flags that would indicate whether semi-permanent makeup might not be appropriate for a client at least until certain conditions are addressed such as health, skin, lifestyle or expectation issues that could compromise healing and pigment retention.

“In many cases, these red flags are not permanent disqualifiers, the treatment can just be delayed until suitable.”

Brow mapping: shaping and enhancing natural features

Once the client’s preferences are established, you can assess their natural brow structure and face shape. All of the experts bring their own methods to this process, but they all share the goal of achieving a look that enhances, rather than overpowers, the client’s natural beauty.

“It’s more important to assess suitability first and the amount of hair the client has,” Roberts shares. Using brow mapping techniques like the three-point mapping and golden ratio mapping process, Roberts tailors the shape to each client’s natural bone structure.

“Colour and shape are always bespoke according to the client’s natural features,” she explains, highlighting that factors like eye size and face shape also influence whether a client might be better suited to a fluffy, bold brow or a more subtle, arched shape.

Hasan shares a similar philosophy when creating a look that flatters each client’s face shape and eye size.

“For style, I will look at the natural brow shape, how high or low it sits, and how we can give the client a younger eye look. If they have round eyes, I will give them straighter brows with a soft arch that lift the eyes,” she explains. 

By carefully considering each client’s features, Hasan ensures that the final result harmonises with their natural look.

Dellar expands on the technical precision involved in designing a bespoke brow: “The brow design process is the foundation of a bespoke brow treatment, it ensures the final result complements the client’s facial features and desired result. First, I would analyse the face shape, next I would assess the client’s natural hair growth direction, density, length and thickness and also the symmetry.

“Using my measuring technique, I mark out the start of the brow, the arch point, the tail, height and slope. I would then choose the brow style. I always consider the client’s preference but I also guide them towards what will complement their face and their brows’ natural position. Lastly, I match pigment to their hair for the most natural result.”

She adds, “When a client requests a style that doesn’t suit their features, I will guide them towards a more flattering option by using my expertise to suggest adjustments that maintains their vision but creates a more flattering result.”

How to choose the right brow treatment: SPMU vs non-semi-permanent options

One of the key decisions in customising a brow treatment is selecting between semipermanent makeup (SPMU) and non-semipermanent options. The experts agree that this choice depends on factors like the client’s existing brow fullness, symmetry and how long they want the treatment to last.

According to Roberts, clients with “a good natural brow that’s quite symmetrical and full” often benefit from non-semipermanent options like lamination or hybrid tints because these treatments can enhance the natural shape without major changes.

However, clients with sparse brows, minimal symmetry or very fair hair may prefer semipermanent techniques like microblading or powder brows, which add more lasting structure and colour.

Hasan adds, “If I think SPMU doesn’t suit them, I will advise them to try other treatments first.”

She often recommends powder brows for clients with curly or coarse brow hairs because it offers a rich, dark finish that stays defined for longer than microblading. Meanwhile, she notes that clients with flat or ashy brows typically see the best results with microblading, as it can bring out a softer, natural colour that suits their skin tone.

Dellar outlines how she helps clients choose the best option: “I help clients to decide between the different options by discussing how each option aligns with their desired result, daily routine and long-term maintenance, ensuring the final choice feels realistic for their lifestyle.”

She also reflects on how her approach has evolved: “I have been doing semi-permanent makeup for 16 years now and my approach to technique selection has evolved as technology and pigments have improved by continually refining my methods to prioritise natural results, skin integrity and long-term colour stability.

“As tools, pigments, and techniques have advanced, I’ve adapted my approach to choose methods that age more gracefully, heal more predictably and suit a wider range of skin types. This allows me to create results that are softer, more tailored and long lasting.”

Navigating brow trends: what works for your clients’ features

Not every brow request is ideal for a client’s natural features, and brow artists have developed approaches to tactfully guide clients toward a look that enhances rather than overwhelms their appearance.

“If it’s something I cannot do because it wouldn’t suit their face or features, I will softly say I think it won’t suit them or it won’t work well,” says Hasan.

“If they’re convinced, I will explain that this will give them a base and a stencil to use to go over, and it will suit their natural features much better.”

Roberts echoes this, stressing that honesty is key to building trust. “Our clients appreciate our honest and professional advice,” she says.

By explaining how different treatments work and what effects they achieve, brow artists can help clients to choose a brow style that aligns with both their features and their lifestyle.

When it comes to trends, the experts prioritise timelessness over styles. “I don’t think I have ever followed the trend with SPMU. It has always been ‘please, as natural as possible’ with my clients,” Hasan shares.

Roberts is also cautious about trends, explaining that her team’s expertise and knowledge of techniques ensure they can deliver flattering results that feel fresh but that won’t end up looking outdated in a few years.

Corrective work and managing expectations

Corrective work is common in the brow industry, particularly as older trends fade or techniques age poorly. Dellar explains, “It is very common to see clients who want to remove their existing work, whether that is from elsewhere or by myself, I take the same thoughtful approach, evaluating the skin’s health, the pigment saturation and how the previous work has aged, so I can recommend removal or a correction method.

“My priority is always to protect the skin and create the best possible long-term outcome. The most common removal/corrective work is definitely brows as brows are the most visible and trend-driven area of semi-permanent makeup.

“Over time, pigments can fade, shapes can fall out of fashion and older techniques may not age well. Because of this, many clients come in wanting to refresh, correct or completely remove work that no longer suits them.”

Custom brow aftercare: ensuring long-lasting results

Aftercare is an essential aspect of brow treatments because it can significantly impact the results. Dellar outlines what clients should expect during healing: “During the healing process for brows, clients should expect a series of completely normal stages. In the first few days, the brows will look darker and more defined than the final result.

“As the skin begins to heal, light flaking can occur, which may make the brows appear patchy or lighter for a short period. This is simply the skin regenerating. Over the following weeks, the colour will gradually soften and settle, and the strokes will become more natural-looking as the skin fully heals.

“The complete healing process typically takes four weeks, and the true results become visible once the skin has finished its natural regeneration.”

She also highlights common aftercare mistakes, commenting, “The most common aftercare mistakes that clients tend to make that can interfere with healing are touching or picking the brows and getting them wet too soon (brows need to be kept dry for 7-10 days). These small mistakes can slow the healing process or affect the final colour and retention.”

The experts offer tailored guidance based on the treatment type, ensuring clients know exactly how to care for their new brows.

Roberts has implemented an organised system to provide aftercare instructions. “We have specific aftercare cards for all treatments, which are given out and emailed to all clients after their treatments,” she says.

Hasan adapts her aftercare advice based on her years of experience. “Most treatments have different aftercare,” she explains. “Over the years, I added and changed the aftercare from taking into account the healing process with my clients.”

To maintain results, Dellar advises: “To help clients keep their brows looking their best for as long as possible, I advise protecting the area from sun exposure with SPF once healed, as UV light is one of the main causes of fading.

“Gentle skincare is important too, avoiding exfoliants, retinols and strong acids directly on the brows helps preserve the pigment. Keeping the skin hydrated and avoiding unnecessary friction, such as harsh cleansing.

“Finally, I remind clients that all semi-permanent makeup softens over time, so regular maintenance appointments are key to keeping the colour and shape looking fresh.”

These approaches to aftercare ensure clients receive tailored advice to help them maintain their brows.

When it comes to treatment results, Hasan has noticed that clients are more realistic in their expectations of semipermanent makeup than they once were.

“People know what to expect when they are healed, and they understand that a good artist will do their job well, but the results will depend on the client’s own skin,” she observes.

The future of bespoke brow treatments

Looking ahead, Dellar sees a clear shift toward realism and longevity. “In the next few years, clients are likely to prioritise brow treatments that offer natural, realistic and long-lasting results. The demand is moving firmly towards softer, more refined brows that enhance each person’s unique features rather than follow dramatic or short-lived trends. 

“Clients will look for techniques that mimic natural hair growth, provide subtle fullness and age gracefully with minimal maintenance. Personalisation will become even more important, with people expecting their brow shape and technique to be tailored to their face shape, skin type and lifestyle. There will also be a growing focus on skin health, gentle application methods and high-quality pigments that fade predictably over time.

“Overall, clients will value treatments that feel effortless, timeless and individual prioritising realism, longevity and a natural, polished aesthetic.”

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